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Exceptional Dining at Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Soaring to New Heights

Dining atop the Aufbauhaus, Berlin's most unyielding eatery has undergone a series of transformations over the past year. Critic Clemens Niedenthal offers his perspective.

Exploring the Sky-High Success of Nobelhart & Schmutzig
Exploring the Sky-High Success of Nobelhart & Schmutzig

Exceptional Dining at Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Soaring to New Heights

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Berlin, is renowned for its unique take on local cuisine, blending elements of Nordic cooking with a Berghain-influenced emphasis on curated experiences.

Currently situated on the rooftop of the Aufbauhaus on Moritzplatz, the restaurant has undergone several transformations since the pandemic began. It has served meals in diverse locations, including König Gallery, artist studios, and the Art Biesenthal fair. The specific artist studios used for intimate dinners during this period remain unnamed.

The temporary location at Aufbauhaus offers a lofty height and an equally lofty ambience. The cosy woolen blankets at this rooftop setting are designed by Frank Leder, adding to the comforting atmosphere.

The menu, curated by chef Micha Schäfer, serves as a 'greatest hits' of sorts, featuring classics such as free-range chicken from Lars Odefey, aged in hay and seared to a crisp. One standout dish is the asparagus, grown without plastic film and almost untouched by the kitchen, offering a toothsome texture and a perfect amount of acidity.

Nobelhart & Schmutzig's drink pairing comes at an additional cost of at least €80, while the menu itself costs €130 per person. The tomato essence served at the restaurant does not need to decide between being a thirst-quencher or an appetizer, providing a refreshing start to the meal.

Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic, Nobelhart & Schmutzig managed to make it through without losing a single employee. The restaurant's commitment to seasonality, regionality, mindfulness, and forceful flavors has always represented a kind of curated intoxication, making it a unique dining experience in the city.

For those unable to dine in, Nobelhart & Schmutzig offers an online shop selling homemade preserves, pickles, and a shirt by Berlin designer Frank Leder. The restaurant's resilience and innovative approach to dining continue to set it apart in the Berlin culinary scene.

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