Harsh truths disguised by soothing melodies
In the scorching summer heat of the vineyards in Nashik, laborer Varad trudges through the rows of vines, the thermometer reading a sizzling 34 degrees Celsius. Perspiration trickles down his forehead as he checks for pests, removes wilted leaves, and collects fallen grapes from the parched ground. Despite the grueling physical exertion, Varad remains composed, acknowledging the extreme heat is a familiar adversary for him and his colleagues.
Working under such harsh conditions, these vineyard workers often switch their shifts to the early morning and late evening hours to bear the unforgiving heat. Varad reminisces about a concession his previous employer made, allowing the workers a respite during the most arduous hours of the day.
What sets Varad apart is his fluency in English, an uncommon trait among farmworkers in India's wine region. He works for Rajeev Samant, the trailblazer of the Indian wine industry, at his renowned "Sula Wineyard." Modern India is encapsulated within the sprawling estate - a society of contrasts where an aspiring middle class enjoys wine while laborers like Varad labor under precarious conditions to create the foundation of this indulgence.
Sula Wineyard, a short drive from the metropolis of Nashik in western India, covers more than 700 hectares of undulating landscape. The ochre-colored, multi-story main building seamlessly integrates into the surroundings, surrounded by other elegant wineries. Tuscany may come to mind for visitors accustomed to its charm, but the local lingo spoken is Maharashtrian rather than Italian, and tropical mango and coconut palms sway in the wind instead of the familiar lemon trees.
The layout of the winery hints at social stratification. A spacious parking lot welcome visitors, while shady seating areas invite relaxation. Gravel paths wind through the vine rows, information boards enlighten visitors about viticulture, and subtle entrance controls subtly dictate who may enter the premises. Wine remains reserved for the aspiring middle class and the economic elite.
From his vantage point, Varad sometimes catches a glimpse of this elusive world of affluence. In the stylish main building, well-to-do couples and families roam, and groups of nouveau riche women and men gather to relax, sip wine, and enjoy the picturesque views of the vineyards. In the basement, they indulge in wine tastings, take selfies, and share their experiences on social media. In India, drinking wine is considered a symbol of elegance and sophistication.
This wine culture is burgeoning. Wine bars are popping up, and specialized stores offer high-quality drops. However, India cannot boast a centuries-old viticulture tradition, as alcohol is still prohibited in several states. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, each Indian consumed on average just 20 milliliters of wine annually - a far cry from the 20 liters consumed by the Germans.
Sula, Varad's employer, has earned a reputation for itself, even making its way to European specialty stores. Alongside Sula, numerous smaller producers have entered the market, offering a diverse selection of around a dozen different grape varieties.
Varad stumbled upon Sula by chance, searching for a stable, better-paying job. He is well-acquainted with Rajeev Samant's story. The young man studied at Stanford University in California, discovered his passion for wine there, and returned to India in 1996, determined to make a difference. Samant's family owned land, providing the perfect opportunity to experiment.
It took Samant a year to plant the first vineyards. But then things progressed swiftly. He founded Sula and, at the millennium's turn, delivered the first bottles to the Indian market. Varad explains the geographical advantages of the region: "Samant realized that Nashik, with its unique location, could be an ideal place for viticulture." This means a hot, almost tropical climate during the day, relatively cool nights, and an annual monsoon that creates optimal conditions.
"In the dry season, we water daily," Varad explains, careful not to reveal too much to disguise his conversation with the press, as his boss has not responded to written inquiries. Varad's laboring conditions are far from luxurious. He works ten hours a day, sometimes even twelve, with overtime violations going unchecked. His monthly income fluctuates between the equivalent of €160 and €250 - a reasonable but not lavish wage for the demanding work.
Manne Pentil, who operates a metal construction company on the outskirts of Nashik, knows the ground truth of farmworkers: "Wine growers often work under poor hygienic conditions or without adequate protection, which can affect their health." Winemakers, like many other workers in India, are largely unorganized, says Pentil. Around 90% of the employed in India work in sectors without significant union representation. Varad also reports that he is not organized on the vineyard. "What's the point?", he says, waving it off. He doesn't believe in the benefits of a union that would represent him in labor law.
Varad has never stepped foot on the terrace where the wealthy wine enthusiasts gather. "I am a worker, not a wine drinker," he frankly declares. He could certainly afford wine with his salary, but he prioritizes investing it in the education of his two children. In a country of 1.4 billion people and fierce competition, education determines one's life path more than anywhere else. Qualifications are essential - for this, Varad endures the daily hard work in the vineyards. Yet, the long working hours strain family life, as he only sees his family in the mornings and evenings, and on rare occasions when he has a day off. A work-life balance is hardly imaginable for him.
Simple employees and workers have only one day off a week, and in India, there is hardly more vacation than 15 to 21 days a year. Paid minimum vacation is only granted after at least one year in the company. Varad yearns to travel to France to learn about the wine-growing regions there. His eyes light up at the thought, hoping to encounter a wine culture less exclusive than the one in his homeland.
- Varad, a laborer at Sula Wineyard, is fascinated by the stark contrast between his lifestyle and the affluent wine-drinking culture he surrounds, despite working under harsh conditions.
- Aside from food-and-drink, Varad prioritizes education-and-self-development for his children, recognizing the importance of qualifications in his highly competitive home country, India.
- On social media, visitors share their experiences at the winery, further highlighting the dichotomy between the indulgent experiences of the economic elite and the laborers who work tirelessly to produce the wine.
- Varad, inspired by Rajeev Samant's story, aspires to travel to France, a renowned center for wine-growing, in pursuit of a deeper understanding of the industry and a glimpse into a more inclusive wine culture.
