Investigating the Pathway of the Walbrook, a Forgotten Waterway in London
The Walbrook, one of London's hidden waterways, remains an enigma wrapped in a veil of history and mystery. Once a bustling river that meandered through the heart of the city, it now exists under the streets, mostly unnoticed by contemporary Londoners.
During the Roman era, London was built over the Walbrook's waters, making it a critical boundary and hub for the first incarnation of Londinium. The river even hosted a Temple of Mithras, a testament to its significance during the period. However, by the first century CE, the Walbrook was already plagued with waste and debris. It eventually succumbed to burial under layers of sewage and refuse by the 15th century.
In April 2025, this journalist attempted to trace the Walbrook's route using Tom Bolton's guidebook, "London's Lost Rivers: A Walker's Guide." Although the entire river is underground, the expedition offered glimpses into the river's rich historical significance and the city that has grown over its course.
The origin of the Walbrook remains uncertain, with scholarly debate splitting between the namesake aqueduct from the Roman wall and the "Brook of the Foreigners/Britons/Welsh." Nevertheless, most writers pinpoint Shoreditch as the river's source, with the holy well providing a central point of interest. Sadly, this sacred well has been lost to time, leaving only New Inn Square as a faint reminder of its former presence.
The walk revealed various historical landmarks, including the site where James Burbage established The Theatre in 1576, designated the Curtain Theatre in honor of the Roman wall over which it stood. Later dismantled and rebuilt in Southwark as the Globe, The Theatre's innovative location outside the City of London's jurisdiction allowed it to evade the watchful eyes of censors.
The tour also offered glimpses into the Arts and Crafts movement, with the Architect-designed row of buildings on Worship Street providing a refreshing departure from the City's normally uniform architecture. The row, originally built for artisans, now bears the status of a Grade II* listed building, thanks to the influence of Philip Webb, a close friend of William Morris.
The journey into the City was characterized by corporate towers and modern shopping centers, with the exception of Exchange Square, a green oasis behind Liverpool Street Station. One cannot forget the Broadgate Venus, a monumental sculpture that pays homage to Venus, the goddess of love and patron saint of the Arts.
Passing through the ancient site of Bethlem Royal Hospital, now infamous for its mistreatment of mental health patients, the journalist couldn't help but linger on the tragic episode in London's past. Reflecting on the hospital's long history and eventual closure in 1815, it's a poignant reminder of the evolving understanding of mental health care throughout the centuries.
Upon rejoining the Walbrook's course, the journalist found that it disappeared beneath the Bank of England. The street Lothbury, which runs along the northern side of the bank, may owe its name to the river, as it literally means lode, or a channel leading to a stream. The route wandered on, leading to St Mary Woolnoth and then the hidden Temple of Mithras, now accessible through the Bloomberg building.
The Walbrook's journey ends at its convergence with the River Thames, although those on this expedition were unable to witness the joining. Despite the river's elusive nature, following its route offered intriguing insights into London's historical landscape and the city's ever-evolving tapestry.
While this undertaking was less reminiscent of psychogeography than the original article suggested, it nevertheless provided a fascinating exploration of London's lost rivers and their role in shaping the city's history. Readers who wish to delve further into the subject are encouraged to check out Tom Bolton's "London's Lost Rivers: A Walker's Guide" for a comprehensive look at the seven rivers of London.
Home-and-garden magazines might feature articles about the lost Temple of Mithras, now hidden in the Bloomberg building, offering readers a glimpse into the folklore and legends surrounding ancient London. Lifestyle blogs could discuss the recent expedition to trace the Walbrook's route, highlighting the unique blend of historic landmarks and modern architecture discovered during the journey, ranging from Shakespearean theaters to architect-designed row houses on Worship Street.
