A Sea of Trash: Navigating Indonesia's Citarum River - A Tour through the "World's Filthiest Waterway"
Navigating through a sea of waste: Exploring the infamous 'most polluted river globally' - Voyage Through Trash: En Route to the World's "Filthiest River"
Spoiler alert: This journey might leave you shaking your head in disbelief.
Residing her entire life near Citarum River, Indonesian local Wida Widiarti has observed its steady transformation from a lifeline to an emblem of extreme environmental contamination. Known as the "world's filthiest waterway," the Citarum River in Java has faced numerous challenges over the years.
"The cleanup never ends, as garbage keeps piling up again," says Widiarti, a resident of Bandung, a city crawling with tourists and picturesque landscapes, deceptive of its waste woes similar to numerous Southeast Asian regions.
Standing alongside her young daughter at the riverbank, Widiarti gazes worriedly at the murky water teeming with plastic bottles, shattered flip-flops, and indistinguishable debris. During specific months, it's a horrifying sight, with waste obstructing the water; even in better times, the Citarum doesn't shy away from trash.
The root cause of Southeast Asia's substantial waste crisis?
Indonesia ranks as the second-biggest contributor of plastic waste to the world's oceans, closely following China. Numerous countries in the region face a similar predicament.
Few reasons behind this catastrophe include rapid population growth, mass tourism, escalating plastic waste, deficient waste sorting, and inadequate recycling facilities in many areas. Furthermore, people often discard waste recklessly, not only due to a lack of environmental consciousness but also due to the absence of efficient waste management services. As activist Annie Leonard warns, "There's no such thing as 'away.' When we throw something away, it must go somewhere."
Germany exports waste to Asia
When it comes to 'going somewhere,' waste from Europe tends to head towards Southeast Asia, including countries like Malaysia, Indonesia, and Vietnam. According to the German Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union (NABU), in 2024, Germany alone shipped 732,000 tons of plastic waste, a significant share of which ends up in its destination.
"Evidence and control systems, as well as the recycling infrastructure in the destination countries, are often insufficient," it was stated. The rest of the waste gets burned, dumped, or disposed of illegally under low environmental standards. A huge portion eventually seeps into the sea.
Bali and Thailand also grapple with pollution
Even in the popular tourist island of Bali, neighboring Java, beaches offer more despair than fantasy, especially during the rainy season. Tons of waste wash ashore, including the surfer's haven of Kuta. Alarmingly, ocean currents also transport waste from other islands.
While tourists indulge in the waves, single-use packaging, straws, styrofoam, and plastic cups pile up on the beach. Many European vacationers might have envisioned their holiday on the "Island of the Gods" differently.
Similarly, in Thailand, tourists are shocked, especially on renowned islands like Koh Samui and Phuket. Landfills and waste management lack in profusion, functioning effectively only in larger cities like Bangkok. The result is more (illegal) waste dumps, often just a stone's throw away from luxurious five-star hotels.
Toxins flood the water from textile factories
Back to the Citarum. The 290-kilometer-long river forms the heart of West Java province before spilling into the Java Sea at the edge of the Pacific Ocean. It serves drinking water, irrigation, and hydropower to almost 30 million individuals, including those in the capital Jakarta, which is two hours away by car.
The problems began when the region transformed into an industrial hub during the 1980s. Along the banks of the Citarum, countless textile factories discharged untreated waste, including hazardous substances such as heavy metals, dyes, and microplastics, into the water.
Operation "Fragrant Citarum"
In 2015, around 2,700 medium and large enterprises were contributing to the Citarum's pollution with their chemicals. According to a 2018 investigation by the Indonesian government, up to 340,000 tons of hazardous waste seeped into the river daily. The result: In some locations, the water was still dark and streaked with poisonous foam.
The predicament worsened with the swelling urban population, as increasing quantities of household waste and single-use plastic entered the river every day. To tackle the situation, then-President Joko Widodo launched an ambitious cleanup campaign called "Citarum Harum," or "fragrant Citarum" in English, aimed at rendering the water drinkable again within seven years.
Illegal Nighttime Wastewater Discharge
The seven years have passed. Has the campaign made a difference? Yes, and no: While the water quality has generally improved due to new wastewater treatment plants, environmental activists express concerns that many factories are still releasing their toxic wastewater into the river, especially at night to avoid detection. Moreover, according to a 2023 study, toxic leachate from decomposing waste from the province's largest landfill is seeping into the Citarum.
Last but definitely not least, the trash keeps coming. Remember that massive carpet of waste that made headlines recently? That occurred last year, and although the authorities successfully cleared the waste, new masses have already appeared, making it seem like Sisyphus' boulder all over again.
So, what can be done? Instead of merely fishing out the trash, the government should focus on preventing it from entering the river initially. As Environmental Activist Daru Setyorini of Ecoton points out, "The Citarum can't be saved by cleanup efforts alone. If we don't address the root causes – regulate industries, educate the population, and transition to sustainable waste management – the Citarum will continue to face difficulties."
- Sustainable waste management practices and regulations must be implemented to reduce the influx of waste into Southeast Asia's waterways, as cited by environmental activist Daru Setyorini of Ecoton.
- It's crucial to educate the population about environmental consciousness and proper waste disposal methods, as these actions can significantly mitigate the waste crisis in the region.
- A promising step lies in transitioning to a circular economy, ensuring waste is minimized, and recycling and reuse are prioritized, subsequently reducing the contribution of plastic waste to the world's oceans.
- To stabilize the health of the Citarum, regulating industries that discharge hazardous substances is essential, as unchecked releases have led to contamination in the past.
- In addition, tackling illegal wastewater discharge at night should be a focal point of environmental protection efforts to maintain the progress made by cleanup campaigns like "Citarum Harum."
- Collaborative efforts between local communities, governments, and international organizations should be fostered to advance in the fight against environmental degradation, as global cooperation is essential to achieve a cleaner, healthier, and sustainable future for Southeast Asia's rivers and oceans.
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